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May 2023 (Part 12)

Greece/Spain Trip - Day 5, May 17 - Poros - Hydra - Poros

We left Poros the next morning heading south to Hydra, which is on the island of Idra (both are pronounced as EE-dra).  We stopped first to swim (4a) before going to Hydra (4b), then returning to Poros for the night (night #5).

At this end of the channel are several small islets, including Bourtzi.  In the Byzantine period (395-1453), the was a castle to help defend the bay and the island of Poros against pirate attacks.  The current ruins are from a fortress built in 1826, which was used to monitor the movement of ships passing through the bay at that time. During World War II, the Nazis used its strategic location for military operations.

Here is the island of Skylli part of the Kelevini Islands which makeup the south-eastern end of the Peloponnesse peninsula.

Our first stop was for a swim near the small island of Sypia (or Sipia).  This was a small rock shaped almost like a frog.  We anchored a bit off-shore, but we all still swam over to the small island.  Steve and Andy got there first and made it up onto a small walled enclosure, while Nancy soon joined them.  The rocks were really sharp though, so they warned Lexi away.  We all then went around a bit to the left where Andy found a ledge about 15 feet above the water with a clear entry.  He then did laps jumping off, while Lexi finally made it up and off (it was pretty high). 

From there, we headed across the straight to Hydra.  This may have been our favorite stop.  Unfortunately, we couldn't stay more than a couple hours.  The port is tiny and Merrick was concerned that we would wind up with another boat rafted off ours, preventing the early departure we needed the next day.

Hydra, or Ydra or Idra (Greek: Ύδρα, romanized: Ýdra, and pronounced as EE-drah), and in antiquity called Hydrea (Ύδρέα, derived from the Greek word for "water"), a reference to the natural springs on the island (which are now gone, leaving no natural source of water), is one of the Saronic Islands.  It is separated from the Peloponnese by a narrow strip of water.  There is one main town, known simply as "Hydra port" (pop. 1,900 in 2011), home to about 90% of the islands residents.  It consists of a crescent-shaped harbor, around which is centered a strand of restaurants, shops, markets, and galleries that cater to tourists and locals (Hydriots). Steep stone streets lead up and outward from the harbor area. Most of the local residences, as well as the hostelries on the island, are located on these streets. Hydra depends on tourism, and Athenians account for a sizable segment of its visitors. High-speed hydrofoils and catamarans, provide ferry service from Athens, stopping at Poros.  There is also a short 20-minute ferry from Metochi on the Peloponnese coast.  Rubbish trucks are the only motor vehicles on the island, since by law, cars and motorcycles are not allowed. Horses, mules and donkeys, and water taxis provide public transportation.  The inhabited area, however, is so compact that most people walk everywhere.  Hydra port boasts several old mansions, one of which is now a maritime academy on the left as you enter port.  The island has historically been a center of maritime activity and shipbuilding, with merchants getting wealthy running the British blockage of French ports during the Napoleanic Wars or while providing safe haven to mainland Greeks fleeing Ottoman oppression.  However, the island lost much of its fleet during the Greek War of Independence, and the island sunk into depression, relying on sponge diving.  After Sophia Loren came to the island to portray a sponge diver in Boy on a Dolphin the island has become a tourist destination and celebrity retreat.

The steep harbor area was really pretty.

Here is the maritime academy to the left as you enter port.  In front is a statue of the local hero, Admiral Andreas Miaoulis, a sea captain from Hydra who led the Greek navy during their revolution against the Ottomans.

We all were ready for lunch and set off in search of gyros.  While everyone else headed left toward the main part of the port, we headed right up and around a ramp, past a School of Fine Arts, and toward two restaurants we had spied on the way in.  They both had patio seating overlooking the water.  We selected the Sunset Bar, which was great.

There were several windmills and the remains of a small fort, complete with cannon, on the hillside above the walkway.  The lowest windmill was restored for the Sophia Loren film.

The view back across to the other arm of the port from an elevated position was great.

After eating, we discovered there were several spots to swim and jump in.  Andy had a bit too much fun with this.

Love this sequence with the Greek flag captured behind Andy.

The sea cave under the platform was neat.   It turns out this was actually named on several maps as Spilia ("cave") and is the closest swimming spot to the town.

Lexi was of course fascinated with the local cats and flowers.

We did get a bit of time in the port town.  It helped out timing when we ran into the rest of our crew and they were still eating.  This clock tower is right at the waterfront marking the entrance to a museum.

Entering takes you down a narrow corridor and out in the courtyard of the Dormition of the Mother of Lord, Hydra Orthodox Cathedral Church.  Here "dormination" is a way of referring to sleep or natural death and meant the natural death of Mary before she ascended into heaven.

This was an active monastery until 1832 and now houses the city government.

As there are no cars allowed, but there are burros (and a horse) to rent to help get you and your belongings to any hotel or other spot on the island.

It was time to depart way too quickly.

Looks like the rest of the crew had a good time.

Our boat is to the left of the catamaran in these images.

We headed back to Poros, arriving just in time to get one of the last spots on the pier.

We walked a bit through town, arriving at the Oasis again.  They had a guitar player at their tavern, so we happily joined them again for dinner, and were soon joined by two of our crew.  Walking back we marveled that Oasis was nearly full and all of the other restaurants along the port were nearly empty.  Clearly they had something going.  Most of us stopped at a sports bar down the row to watch the UEFA Champions League semi-final between Manchester City and Real Madrid (City won 4-0).